Eight steps. No shortcuts. Timeline depends on the size and condition of the job.
Request A Site AssessmentEvery step matters. Here's exactly what we do and why.
Moisture vapor transmission is the number one reason floor coatings fail early. We test the slab with a calcium chloride or relative humidity probe before committing to any system — if the numbers are off, we address it before coating.
We grind the entire surface with a planetary diamond grinder to achieve a CSP 2–3 concrete surface profile. This opens the pores of the slab so the polyurea base coat bonds chemically to the concrete rather than just sitting on top of it.
Cracks are chased out and filled with flexible epoxy filler. Any spalled or deteriorated areas get patched and leveled. The coating follows the contour of the slab — imperfections that aren't fixed now will show through later.
The base coat is rolled and back-rolled across the prepared slab. Polyurea cures faster and stays more flexible than epoxy, giving the system its impact resistance and its bond strength to the concrete. This is the workhorse layer.
While the base coat is still wet, vinyl flake is broadcast to rejection — full, even coverage with no bare spots. The flake locks in as the base coat cures, creating the decorative pattern and adding built-in texture to the surface.
Once the base coat has cured, loose standing flake is scraped flat with a floor scraper and vacuumed clean. Any low spots in the flake layer are filled with a grout coat before the topcoat goes on.
The clear polyaspartic topcoat seals the flake and delivers the final protection: UV stability so it won't yellow, chemical resistance against oils and solvents, and the chosen sheen level — satin, semi-gloss, or high-gloss.
Foot traffic in 6–8 hours. Vehicle traffic the next morning. No week-long cure periods, no strong solvent smell lingering for days. The fast-cure chemistry of polyaspartic is one of its biggest practical advantages over traditional epoxy.
